Victoria and Dow Hill.

In Their Environment

Victoria and Dow Hill Schools have weathered more than a century, a century that launched mankind from the Age of Steam to the Space Age; a century of rapid changes reflected in Victoria and Dow Hill environment.

Victoria and Dow Hill have mellowed and aged and integrated with their environment, loved by generations, not just for their education, but also for their trees, plants, animals and birds, the slopes, flats, dips and paths; stones and soil; for sun, mist, rain and damp; the people, the lines, the town, the district; the grandeur of mountains rising from the plains, bejewelled by twinkling settlements at night. The people here have seen, observed, experienced, recorded and measured their life over the years.

This massive collection of data enriched by official records of varying vintage, has built up over more than the last hundred years - a labour of love whose just reward is to be set in perspective for a multi-dimentional picture of Victoria and Dow Hill in their environment. This is a stupendous task, and bowing to the limits of time and space, and at the risk of injustice to the past and present staff and students, we have to rest content with what follows: an acquaintance for the unacquainted and for those who know her, at least affectionate recognition and nostalgia !

The entire district of Darjeeling was a part of Sikkim in the 18th Century, but in the first decade of the 19th Century the Nepalis conquered and annexed the Terai and the lower hills of the Himalayas. After the Gurkha War in 1817, the British restored the region to Sikkim, though their main Intention was the annexation of this area for military purposes as the key to a pass into Nepal. On February 1, 1835, Sikkimputtee, Rajah of Sikkim gifted the entire hill tract bounded by the rivers Mahanadi and Balason to British India. Although received as a gift, it had to give Sikkim an annual rent of Rs. 3000 from 1841. This was subsequently raised to Rs. 12000 in 1846. Finally, following a successful campaign which started due to the arrest and detention of Dr. D. A. Campbell, IMS (The Superintendent of Darjeeling District) and Dr. H. Hooker (the great Orientalist) by the Sikkimese, the hill tract between the Tista and the Mechi and the entire Terai area which included the previously leased area (including Dow Hill) was permanently annexed to British India in 1850. At present the district has four subdivisions, namely, Darjeeling (Subdivisional Town: Darjeeling, 2248 m.), Kalimpong (Subdivisional Town:Kalimpong, 1198 m.), Kurseong (Subdivisional Town:Kurseong, 1483 m.) and Siliguri (Subdivisional Town:Siliguri, 110 m.).

Kurseong is about 640 km. from Calcutta, 48 km. from Siliguri and 32 km. from Darjeeling. In 1880, the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (the erstwhile 'steam tram') connected Kurseong with Siliguri, and a year later, the railway was extended to Darjeeling. Previously Kurseong was only connected with Siliguri by the Pankhabari Road which was opened in 1852. Later, the stretch of Hill Cart Road from Kurseong to Darjeeling was opened to traffic in 1864 and after five years, i.e., in 1869 the whole road up to Siliguri was completed. The communication network further improved shortly after the second World War when air-links were established between Calcutta and Bagdogra, thereby making Kurseong easily accessible from Calcutta.

Victoria and Dow Hill Schools are situated to the East of Kurseong township on the Dow Hill ridge, which radiates from Tiger Hill and comes down on to the plain as a giant serpentine spur. It is also a part of the ridge which culminates in a spot called Chimney to the North East of Victoria School - a saddle at a height of 2196 m. The Dow Hill Road (the erstwhile Old Military Road, laid between 1839 and 1842) ascends fairly steeply from the Railway Station (1483 m), runs along the crest of the ridge and brings us to Dow Hill School overlooking Kurseong township at a distance of 5 km. from the Railway Station. Victoria School lies about 700 m. to the south of Dow Hill School (1830 m) at a height of 1860 m. and is reached by Aranya Sariani passing through a beautiful coniferous plantation.

We get a glorious panorama of the lofty mountains to the North from the Schools. The high peaks like Tonglu (3063 m), Sandakphu (3323 m.) of the Singalila Range to the North-West, Tiger Hill (2615 m), the town of Ghurn (2259 m) situated on a pass to the North can be seen more or less throughout the year. When clear weather prevails, especially from October to March, the majestic snow clad peaks of the Kanchenjungha- Range (about 104 km. away) can be seen through a gap between Ghum and Senchal. At other times they are hidden by envious mists which lift their veil only for a few minutes at rare intervals.

In the distant foreground are the tea-clad slopes of the Lower Himalayas; away to the North, the mighty snow-clad peaks stand out in regal splendour. The snowy peaks visible from East to West are Simvu (6811 m. ), Kanchenjunga (8598 m.), Talung (7349 m.), Kabrudome (6600 m.), Kabru (7338 m.), Ratang (6678 m.) and Jannu or Kumbhakarna (7710 m.).

The charm of Dow Hill lies in the splendid view one gets of these lofty mountains of the North, and also in the spectacular vista afforded by the vast plains in the South. On a bright sunny day, from the neighbouring Forest School, one can see the Tista which gets its name from 'Tri-srota' meaning three currents. It flows through dense forests at the base of the hills till it broadens out towards the distant horizon. The next river further West is the Mahanadi, known as the Mahananda in the plains. It collects water from the Dow Hill ridge forming the turbulent Pagla Jhora and comes down to the plains and joins the Balason-the river of golden sand, about 7.5 km. West of Siliguri. The Balason, after taking its waters from springs in the Ghum ridge near Pulungdung, flows along the Dow Hill ridge near Kurseong and emerges onto the plain at Panighata. Still further to the West flows the Mechi, which demarcates the India - Nepal boundary for some distance. Other important features that meet the eye are the Balason gorge and the Eagle's Crag - a sheer fall of several hundred metres to the Balason valley through which the river describes a gently winding course.

.Beyond the Eagle's Crag on the Pankhabarl Ridge, one can see the lovely conifers standing like sentinels on the Mirik ridge. It is indeed an experience to be exposed to the wonderful view of the numerous spurs jutting out onto the vast plains of India stretching for thousands of kilometres and gradually merging Into the dim blue of the distant horizon.

On a clear, star-studded night, the winding Pankhabari Road with its linear illuminations. the red lights at Constantia-the original site of Victoria and Dow Hill Schools, the main radial arteries of communication of Siliguri - New Jalpaiguri, the settlements of the even further Jogbani in Nepal, the twinkling lights of the scattered settlements on the hills and the twinkling stars in the sky demonstrate the close rapport between man and Nature.

The Schools are tentatively bounded by unnamed jhoras in the North and in the South for some distance. Two artificial lines delineate the Eastern and Western boundaries separating the schools from the Khasmahal as well as the forest lands. The area is more or less bounded in the East by the 1890 m. contour line and by the 1800 m. contour line in the West. Thus the configuration is absolutely undulating. The slope is Westward, the gradient fairly steep, and the aspect, in general, is Westerly and Southwesterly. Accordingly, all our school buildings and flats have been constructed following the contours, and it is no wonder that most of the buildings face the West.

Geologically, this area comes within a geo-tectonic belt. Much of the area now presenting some of the most magnificent mountain scenery in the world was under marine conditions over a period of about 600 million years. About 120 million years ago ( Mid-Cretaceous) a plate bearing the Indian subcontinent, broke away from the ancient Gondwanaland and began to drift towards Asia. About 50 million years ago (Mid-Tertiary period, Eocene Epoch) the Indian plate was pushing against the Tibetan plate. As a result of this tremendous lateral pressure, the sediments that floored the intervening Tethys Sea, as well as the base rocks of that geosynclinal basin, buckled up into folds of great heights and formed the Himalayas - abode of snow. So the parent rocks of our area on the lower Himalayas have been sheared, overthrust, invested and therefore present an extremely complicated structure. Our school areas in general, comes within the zone of Darjeeling Gneiss of Archaean age (600 million years ago). It consists of golden and silvery granitiferous Mica Schists, Quartzites and coarse grained Gneiss like, Boitite, Kyanite and Sillimanite Gneiss. The Gneiss is well foliated, crumpled and highly micaceous, and is, composed of white opaque Feldspar Muscovite, Biotite colourless or grey Quartz. Thus in general, the rock is Darjeeling Gneiss impregnated with Mica flakes and carries subordinate bands of Quartzite. It varies in texture from a fine grained to a moderately coarse rock.

Reddish and yellow soils are formed on the Gneisses and Schists of the area owing to the disintegration of the Biotite in the Gneiss. This type of soil is ferruginous, aluminous and siliceous with free Quartz as sand. It is usually poor in Lime, Iron Oxide, Phosphorus, Nitrogen and Magnesia, but fairly rich in Potash, some parts being quite rich in Potassium derived from Muscovites and Feldspar and Gneiss. Brown clayey soil, which is sticky, and generally poor and shallow, also occurs in this area.

Circulation of ground water takes place in the area through joints, fissures, and 'near the surface, through regoliths. Hence the chances of accumulation of a large quantity of water are remote. Moreover, increased run-off due to the steep gradient and unscientific removal of vegetation, and the resultant drying up the aquifers, are turning the perennial 'Kholas' into intermittent 'Jhoras'.

The area, though situated within the sub-tropical belt, enjoys a typical mountain type of climate in a monsoon region, in other words, a damp and temperate climate. Temperature decreases more or less at the normal lapse rate of 1 degree C in 165 m. January is the coldest month, with the average temperature around 7.5 degrees C. The mean daily maximum temperature is around 12 C and the mean daily minimum temperature is around 3 C. During the pre-monsoon months a Southerly wind from the Bay of Bengal brings moisture laden air in varying quantities and the impact of this current on the cool North Easterly current gives rise to local storms.

The gradual rise of temperature after winter culminates in the month of July, which is the warmest month with an average temperature of about 19.4 C. The mean daily maximum temperature is around 21.6 C and the mean daily minimum temperature is around 17.2 C. The occurrence of dense fog is rather a rule, especially during the dry winter and the wet summer. Hail is fairly common during spring. Frost occurs especially in mid-winter, when the cold North winds prevail.

The drawback to such an ideal situation is the excessive rainfall during the monsoon. Here the whimsical monsoon bursts by the first week of June and incessant downpour continues till the first week of October. Relative humidity throughout this period remains very high (over 70 - 75%) and the pressure is around 61.5 cm. Dow Hill, though lower than Darjeeling, receives a much higher rainfall owing to its exposure to the South. And storms and moist winds come up unhindered from the Terai, resulting in heavy showers.

Considering the prevailing weather conditions, a year here may be divided into four seasons tentaively : December to February - dry, cold winter; March to May - Spring with some pre-monsoon showers; June to September - warm, wet Summer or the Monsoon season; October to November - Autumn, with some rain till mid October.

A summary of the rainfall for the past years (Table no. 1) reveals the alarming fact that rainfall is gradually diminishing, which may be due either deforestation or to the global shifting of the monsoon belt.

The climb from the plains to Victoria and Dow Hill Schools are marked by the unfolding drama of the transition from tropical abundance towards the exotica of the Upper Himalayas. The flora of Dow Hill is a combination of the Tropical and the Alpine. Moss clothed conifers tower their heads out of the forest gloom, sheltering myriads of epiphytes gorging themselves on the rich, dripping moisture.

No Ardenesque serenity, but in triumphant freedom from formal gardens, garden exotica run wild towering Dahlias, rejoicing Gladioli, riots of Roses. Begonias sprout from moist crevices, Lycopodia flow from dense fern brakes, snake plants raise their hoods in thousands and the famous White Orchids burst forth in jasmine scented clusters, while ground orchids spray forth yellow blooms from under the Mahonias. The smallest concentration of moist dirt supports its own microcosm.

The awe inspiring gloom of the forest harbours no great water falls, but life itself flows and leaps in triumphant cascades. Unfortunately, man has, in his eternal selfish, ignorant fashion, ruthlessly exploited this richness, wearing thin this verdant coat, scarred now with landslides. Much of the rich animal life is lost to the area for ever. Yet it still teems with rich fauna. Bands of monkeys still riot in the trees, flying squirrels glide gracefully in the silent gloom and the jackals still serenade the dwindling forests. Kraits and Vipers still remind man of his mortality, and leeches remind him that he is not the only one in nature to exploit without return.

Our area is a part of the Reserve Forest in the Dhobijhora Block. All timber and other forest produce on the land are the property of the Forest Department and we have only the right of use.

The area comes under the upper hill forest zone (1400 m. to 2400 m.), having wet temperate forests of Champion's 10 B/C type. The poor soil affects the growth and composition of the vegetation greatly. The main species of the upper storey are Pipli, Utis, Katus, Kapasi, Bhadrase, Mouwa, Buk, Champ, Kawla, etc. along with Jhingini, Mahonia, Arkawla, Boketimur (Phaledo), Kharane. Malata, Khankpa. Rhus species, Ghurpis (Leucoseptrum canum), etc. of the second and lower storey. The ground flora consists of Chirata, Vasaka, Asare, Maling, Lycopodium, Chulatro, etc. Among the common climbers are Bal Dhengra (Mucuna macrocarpa), Tholne, lpomea, Vitis spp., Rosa sericea, Barkuli Lahara Stephania, Paedaria, Gufla (Holboelia), etc. are important. Natural weeds and shrubs and grasses ate innumerable, among which, important ones found in our area include Sisnu, Asare, Banmara (Eupatorium spp.), Aselu (Rubus spp.), Rhus spp

The ground flora also include fems like Gleichenia spp., herbs and weeds like Chirata, Maling, Thulkuri, Lilies, Dahlias, Begonias, Cestrum auruntiacum, Colycinus, Potentila, Viola, plants of Acanthacea, Anaphalls spp., Plantago spp., Crocus, Anemone spp., and Pilea spp.

The flora of Dow Hill includes a large number of species that are useful to man in various ways - as food, as fodder, as medicine. And the following tables will give a rough idea of their scope.

In addition to these are Mosses, Algae, Fungi and Lichens. Abundant green and blus green algae are met in this a rea. Abeautiful apiphytic alga, "Trentepholia aurea’ covers walls, rocks and tree trunks, and iron bacteria of brick red colour are seen inlumps beside the the water courses and where water oozes out from the hills.

The land on which our schools were built was transferred in phases by the Forest Department to the PWD. The schools thus have a close relation with the forest, which is accentuated by the fact that the trees and timber in the campus are still the property of the Forest Department, mostly planted by it, and also the fact that the Forest School is a close neighbour. It is therefore interesting to take a look at what our friends in that Department have been doing since they started activities in this area.

The insects which damage these trees are the twig Borers (Hypsipyla robusta), which frequently attack Tuni, and Bactocera horsfieldii attack Dhupi. The shoot Borer (Bucklandia polulnea) attacks Pipli and the Champ Bug (Urostylus puncitigera) causes much damage to Champ. A grub, Phassus hepialidae attacks Utis, Dhupi and Champ.

Beetles, butterflies and insects are our strong point, and an entomologist could be certain of obtaining a new specimen every day. The following table will give a notion of the lower fauna of the area.

Amphibians are represented mainly by toads, though the Victoria School Record of 1910 says, "We must not fail to mention that there is a small salamander (Tylotriton vericosus) found in these parts and that salamanders are not found elsewhere in India." It is interesting to note that about three years ago boys of the school collected a few specimens of the Tylotriton species.

Among reptiles, besides several lizards and skinks, there is an abundance of Ophidians, among which we should avoid contact with the Banded Krait (Bungurus fasciatus), Common Krait (Bungurus caeruleus), the Himalayan Krait (Bungurus bungaroide), Russell's Viper (Vipera russellii), Blotched Pit Viper (Trimeresurus monticola). Harmless snakes like the Wolf Snake (Lycodon spp), which is sometimes mistaken for the Krait, a reddish brown snake locally known as the Rato Sanp, Black Rock Snake (Kala Sanp), are also observed quite frequently. Another harmless snake False Cobra (Pseudoxenodon Macrops) is also seen, though rarely, in this locality.

The presence of different mammals is set out below in a comparative table made out with a list of animals compiled during 1906-11.